I was not always enamored of things like Finnan Haddie. I grew up in New York City, where they made soup – I can no longer refer to it as Chowder- out of clams in a tomatoey base. I couldn’t touch the stuff because I was allergic to bivalves ( clams, oysters, scallops – you know). But I never knew about fish chowder. So, I got a real education when I left “The City” for points north.